Trinidad’s carnival is a mix of pounding melodies of calypso and soca bands, racy rhymes, steel drums and a circus of as many as 300,000 people dressed from head to toe in peacock-hued costumes that march and dance around the streets – or so Nadia Tyson tells us in this account of her experiences in Pasadena’s Star-News.
I traveled to Trinidad and Tobago a total of three times in the past two years but never once to partake with the throngs parading through the streets during the much anticipated Caribbean Carnival.
Being a teacher, I was ecstatic to discover this year my unwanted furlough calendar days lay in sync with the main two-day event.
At that point, buying a ticket was a “no brainer.”
In hopes of any ounce of advice for how to prepare for such an exciting and grandiose event, I reached out to all my local Trini friends via Facebook to get their tips. Apparently they had already been gearing up to take the parade by storm for weeks in advance.
It is often said that if Trinidadians are not celebrating Carnival, then they are getting ready for it while reminiscing about the past year’s celebration.
Carnival has been celebrated in Trinidad since the 19th century, when emancipated African slaves began rebelling and mimicking the masque balls of their French colonial landowners while also paying respect to African mythology and music. Today these African roots, the passion of the parade and convergence of people from all over the Caribbean continues to mirror the celebration and freedom they achieved.
While en route for 11 hours from LAX to Port-of-Spain, I was advised to try to sleep as much as possible to conserve all energy before the reveling began. My plane arrived just in the nick of time to dive head first into Dimanche Gras (Fat Sunday), a show of competitions where among other performances, Trini’s showcase themselves before judges frosted in their colorful bikinis, beads and feathers in hopes of winning the titles of King and Queen of the Carnival Bands. As my local friends whisked me away from the airport they filled me on how elaborate these costumes could get. However, it wasn’t until I arrived that I realized how far some of the contestants actually take it. I was astonished and amazed as competitors crossed the stage trying to outdo one another with costumes that were two stories high, weighing up to 100 pounds and made up of such meticulous construction and artistic design.
Once the showcase ended I was tempted to either sneak into the back seat of my friend’s car and take a nap or desperately search for a much needed caffeinated drink. My friends had given me a heads up that J’ouvert, the pre-dawn Monday celebration that marks the official start to the two day carnival, was soon on its way. This is when a mass of people smear themselves in mud, oil and cocoa powder and parade the streets flinging paint on everyone else while dancing.
Soon enough, at 4 a.m., masqueraders covered from head to toe in splattered decor made their way through the small streets while vibrating soca music blasted from speakers on trucks rolling slowly by us. I was told to be dressed entirely in white and as I was munching on a beef pie I had bought from a street vender, I found out why. A young boy dripping in bright amber paint targeted me, gave a big bear hug and then ran away. I couldn’t help from laughing and soon I felt I could no longer be mistaken as a spectator on the sideline. My friends pulled me into the crowd and eventually I was dancing and shuffling along side them.
By Monday evening my friends and I drove up to Paramin, a tiny town at the top of a high hill overlooking Port-of-Spain. Apparently it is tradition for the entire town to assemble together on the first night of carnival to celebrate among groups of locals covered in blue paint, dressed as devils or werewolves. The Blue Devils of Paramin entered on to the small street following a band of drummers that directed the beat to their stomps and dances. Several of the devils carried sticks or forks that they used to lightly stab onlookers as a sign for money.
The crowd followed the groups up and down the small streets like a swarm of bees and I soon joined in with the flock. Every so often children would venture up to a monstrous looking blue devil or a werewolf and offer a Trinidadian dollar. I realized that I was expected to do so too, as the light pokes from their forks turned into getting slimmed by their bright blue paint.
Carnival Tuesday is when the awaited costume feting and parading happens. When my friends and I arrived, the bands and spectators were already filling up the streets of Port-of-Spain. I was amazed how the entire town had turned into a heavy sea of people shaking, singing, gyrating, waving feathers around and participating in happy debauchery.
There were around 200 groups in total, each with their own unique costumes that congregated themselves into clusters called “playing mas.” I noticed that these groups were very eclectic; varying in size, music and themes.
By noon it was well over 90 degrees but I hardly noticed. I was too mesmerized and consumed with being surrounded by an endless marching line of costume-clad locals and their energetic dancing to soca beats.
I could tell the vibe permeated on everyone around me as I watched both young and old “wining,” “liming” and shuffling around. This was awesome. I loved how infectious the vibe, enthusiasm and pride of the locals spread and as I felt the energy orbit around me, I felt lucky and excited to be participating in such a significant, unique and fun experience.
Nadia Tyson is a documentary photographer and photography teacher. She grew up in a number of places including Sweden before settling in Venice Beach.
Her photos can be viewed at www.nadiatyson.com
Source: repeatingislands.com
REGGAE music’s history would not be the same without the Bob Marley’s album Catch a Fire, said Professor Mike Alleyne from the Department of Recording Industry at Middle Tennessee State University in the United States—as Basil Waters reports in Jamaica’sGleaner.
Barbados-born Alleyne was speaking at the 15th Bob Marley lecture held at the Neville Hall Lecture Theatre, University of the West Indies, Mona campus, last Thursday. The annual symposium — put on by the Institute of Caribbean Studies and the Reggae Studies Unit — was convened under the theme: “For the Record: Bob Marley’s Island Albums and the 40th Anniversary of Catch a Fire.”
“Catch a Fire is an album with definitive conviction, but it can also be seen in some ways as a work of artistic contradiction. What is certain is that the Wailers, Bob Marley, the history of reggae and popular music in general would not have been the same without this iconic record,” Professor Alleyne noted.
Catch a Fire is the major label debut album for The Wailers, released on Island Records. The album established the group and leader Bob Marley as international superstars. The socially aware lyrics and militant tone attracted many listeners to Marley and Peter Tosh’s confrontational subjects and optimistic view of a future free from oppression.
“Reggae got internationalisation in the 1970s particularly through Island Records… a major social catalyst for the international spread of Rastafari… the music reaches a higher level of maturity… Catch a Fire is a crucial album which initially was more a critical rather than a commercial success at the roots of Island Catalogue,” Professor Alleyne told the forum attended by students, academia and music observers.
The professor, who holds a master’s degree in English from the University of the West Indies, sought to explain that although Catch a Fire marks a defining moment in the internationalisation of reggae, the 1972 album which was released in late-1973 in the States, did not diminish the importance of the Wailers’ earlier recordings.
He said the militancy and urgency of Catch a Fire were the yardsticks against which other albums such as Kaya, Exodus, Rastaman Vibration, Natty Dread and Burnin were often measured.
Professor Alleyne was not unmindful of the contributions of other trailblazers.
“Artistes like Desmond Dekker and other pioneers were among those who paved the way towards reggae’s international profile between the late-1960s and early-1970s. But the artistic and critical impact of Catch a Fire signified the importance of the album in the future of reggae. Catch a Fire proved to be the cohesive statement in ways no previous reggae release had achieved… and created a reggae marketing template,” he argued.
Added he, “Although the soundtracks of the movie The Harder They Come, released first in 1972, also by Island (Records), played a major role in spreading the sounds of reggae… Catch a Fire brought reggae into the mainstream as a serious popular music.”
In his multi-media presentation, featuring slices of the Wailers’ music, he cited head honcho of Island Records Chris Blackwell’s strategic approach of reconfiguring some of the group’s earlier recordings in order for them to have a wider appeal in the crossover rock market.
Source: repeatingislands.com
Planning on being married while in the Cayman Islands? A destination wedding or getting married while visiting by cruise ship could not be more romantic and relatively simple. The wedding venues are endless with miles of sandy white beach, lovely parks, private yachts, hotels and restaurants. Plus, there is no waiting period. You can get married the same day you arrive with the right paperwork ready.
You may want to hire a professional local wedding planner who can conveniently make the arrangements for you. Consider the local requirements, the hours and days the licensing office may not be open — a wedding coordinator has the experience and local knowledge to insure your wedding is the perfect day you’ve always dreamed of — free of hassle and full of romance!
What you need to know and do, to get married in the Cayman Islands:
Couples wishing to marry, require a special license issued by the Governor’s office. Marriage applications are made at the following local offices:
Passport and Corporate Services Office for Grand Cayman
Sussex House, Elgin Avenue, George Town, Grand Cayman
Second Floor / Tel: 345-945-6764 Fax: Fax: 345-945-4355
9:00am to 5:00pm, Monday to Friday.
District Administration Office for Cayman Brac and Little Cayman
Government Administration Building, Cayman Brac
Tel: 345-948-2222
The marriage application includes; both parties full names, occupation, permanent address, temporary address (if any), marriage officer (who will perform the ceremony), whether either party has been previously married and confirmation that there is no lawful hindrance to the intended marriage and the signature of the bride and groom.
You will need to present the following documents:
Proof of identity, such as an original or certified birth certificate or passport;
Cayman Islands international embarkation/disembarkation card or ship’s boarding pass;
Certified or original copies of divorce decrees or death certificates, if applicable.
Plus you must cover the cost of the marriage license fee of: CI$150 (US$187.50), plus a CI$10 (US$12.50) postage stamp, must accompany the documents. (Stamps may be purchased from the government office or from any post office.)
Your Cayman marriage license must be produced to the marriage officer performing the ceremony and becomes void if not used within three months. All marriages must be attended by a marriage officer and by two other witnesses. Marriages in the Cayman Islands must take place between the hours of 6 a.m. and 8 p.m.. (Should your wedding take place on a Sunday, the Cayman Islands’ liquor licensing laws state that live music may not be played on Sunday in places licensed to sell alcoholic beverages.)
After a marriage, your marriage officer must file a duplicate of the register entry with the Registrar General. A certified copy of the register entry will be supplied to the couple without charge. Further certified copies may be obtained for CI$10 per copy from the Registrar of Marriages at the General Registry, telephone 345-244-3404, or email bdm@gov.ky.
The following are additional miscellaneous fees, which may be required depending on your specific circumstances:
To a Marriage Officer
For receiving a notice for banns – $5
For receiving an objection (payable by the party making the objection) – $10
For witnessing a marriage (payable by one of the parties to the marriage) – $40
To a Civil Registrar
For receiving a notice of marriage – $5
For receiving an objection (payable by the party making the objection) – $10
For witnessing a marriage (payable by one of the parties to the marriage) – $40
To the Registrar General
For every search in the General Registry, per hour and each part of an hour (payable by the person requiring the search) – $5
For every certified copy of an entry of a register of marriage (payable by the person requiring the copy) – $10
For correction of an error of fact or substance in a marriage register (payable by the person requiring the correction to be made) – $10
Source: caymanairwaysmagazine.com
According to one taco hunter, at an authentic taquería, “ordering a Corona is a gringo move” and you’re much better off with a Michelada instead. This refreshing Mexican beer cocktail is the perfect compliment to spicy foods.
This recipe was inspired by Roger Toll’s article in the March 2011 issue of Caribbean Travel + Life, The Taco Hunter. According to Roger, at an authentic taquería, “ordering a Corona is a gringo move” and you’re much better off with a Michelada instead. This refreshing Mexican beer cocktail varies regionally—some versions are as simple as lime juice, chili powder, and beer, while others can contain a blend of many spices, tomato or clamato juice, and even cooked shrimp.
MAKES 1 DRINK
INGREDIENTS
1 tbsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. chili powder
1 pinch cayenne
1 lime
3-4 dashes Worcestershire sauce
3-4 dashes Mexican hot sauce (or to your taste)
Mexican beer such as Pacifico, Corona, or Modelo Especial
INSTRUCTIONS
1. Slice a wedge from the lime, reserving the rest of the fruit.
2. Combine the salt and spices in a small bowl. Run the lime wedge around the rim of a pint glass, and dip the wet glass in the salt mixture until the rim is completely covered. Fill the glass with ice.
3. Squeeze the juice from the rest of the lime over the ice. Add the Worcestershire sauce, hot sauce, and a pinch of the spice mixture on top. Slowly fill the glass with beer. Garnish with the lime wedge.
Source: www.caribbeantravelmag.com
What’s there to see and do on a remote Caribbean island that’s just 12 miles long and two miles wide, population 1,500? Most visitors to Cayman Brac — the middle child in the family of three islands that make up the Cayman Islands — are pleasantly surprised.
For nature lovers and adventurers, it’s paradise found. For those seeking an escape that’s a throwback in time, it’s a little slice of heaven.
Boasting unique natural charm and character, the Brac is strikingly different from Grand Cayman or its tiny sibling, Little Cayman. What sets it apart is its landscape. A dramatic limestone bluff dominates the middle of the island, rising 140 feet above the sea at the eastern tip. The vegetation is lush, almost jungle-like in some areas, while other parts of the island sport arid vistas dotted with large cacti, windswept palms and parched scrubland.
The bluff is honeycombed with caves and climbing cliffs. Also, there are numerous ponds and wetlands; a series of hiking and nature trails; world-class birding opportunities; great offshore and big game fishing; a number of heritage sites; and spectacular diving in warm waters.
While much of the coastline is rough ironshore, there are several sandy beaches that make idyllic getaways for some dreamy downtime. Public Beach is a popular retreat on the island’s south shore — a soothing spot to bask in the sun while the waves lap the shoreline.
It all sets the stage for experiencing the wonders of nature — the Brac’s greatest attraction. Indeed, nature tourism is a growing lure to this tranquil island that features a range of eco-excursions that make the short trip from Grand Cayman well worth it.
Take a Hike
Brac is Gaelic for “bluff,” a nod to the island’s Scottish influence. It’s the distinguishing feature of this rugged but lush isle, which is the tip of an underwater mountain. There are spectacular panoramic views on the eastern end of the bluff, which offers great hiking, rock climbing and caving adventures. Be sure to visit the lighthouse for a bird’s-eye view of the island and great photo opportunities.
Tour around Long Beach on the north-eastern edge — a spectacular hike at the bluff’s rocky base that’s blanketed with sea grape trees. Much of the eastern bluff is covered with dry scrubland intermingled with thatch palm trees and tall cacti. In early summer, it also boasts beautiful wild orchids. Sea grape trees and coconut palms dominate the south coastal shelf.
The bluff’s various walls are a big draw for rock climbers. There are about 75 routes to choose from. Titanium Tortuga bolts, made specifically for marine environments, are in place to give climbers more freedom to scale the craggy formation. The bluff is recommended for experienced climbers, as the terrain is rugged and can be extremely steep. Climbing guru Skip Harper has hailed Cayman Brac among the best rock climbing destinations in the world. He’s written a book about his excursions called Adventuring on Cayman Brac. There’s also a section on the Brac on his website, www.skipharper.com.
You can drive to the bluff or hike to the area. If walking, don’t be surprised if you encounter some wayward bovines — and their “calling cards” — along the way, since locals tend cattle in the area. Come prepared: bring plenty of water and sturdy footwear.
Birdwatching Bonanza
The bluff is the favourite haunt of the brown booby, a large seabird that nests in its caves and ledges. It’s easy to observe these birds up close — they’re curious creatures that seem to enjoy watching people as much as people enjoy watching them. If you’re here at the right time, you’ll come across their adorable pure-white fuzzy chicks peeking up from the edge of the cliff. The optimal time to catch a glimpse of them is March.
Home to some 200 species of resident and migratory birds, the Brac is hailed as a birdwatcher’s paradise. The best time to spot the greatest number of species is from late October to April. Magnificent frigates, red-footed booby birds, egrets, ducks, sandpipers and plovers can be found in abundance, while spoonbills and flamingos can be spotted occasionally. Chances are you’ll encounter the endangered West Indian whistling duck, a stoic bird that’s great to photograph. Also keep your eyes peeled for the vitelline warbler and tiny yellow bananaquit.
The best place to observe the Cayman Brac parrot — as well as numerous other species — is at the Brac Parrot Reserve. The 180-acre sanctuary is home to around 400 of these birds, which are unique to Cayman Brac. You can spot them while strolling along a 600-foot wooden boardwalk that winds its way through an ancient dry-wood forest and over rocky terrain that includes plunging sinkholes. The reserve is also home to a great variety of bromeliads and tree orchids.
The more adventurous and energetic can continue hiking beyond the boardwalk on a looping path that passes through different types of terrain including farmland, thickets and mature woodland. This hike takes about an hour, so remember to wear sturdy hiking shoes and bring water.
Cave Hunting
Caving is a must-do adventure. The Brac is home to hundreds of cave systems, caverns and chambers that have been naturally carved over millions of years. Many aren’t accessible but there are several that are popular stops for visitors as steps, handrails, ladders and platforms provide ease of access, with picnic and parking areas nearby.
The Bat Cave is one of the most popular and impressive. With plunging sinkholes, dark chambers and jutting stalactites mixed in with a tangle of overhanging roots and vines, it looks like a movie set straight out of Indiana Jones. And, yes, there are bats. Chances are you’ll see a few of these tiny creatures hanging out.
Peter’s Cave is another popular stop, since it sits high on the bluff on the eastern end of the island. While the cave is impressive, the view overlooking the district of Spot Bay is simply stunning. Keep in mind that getting to Peter’s Cave is quite the hike up steep steps.
Half-Way Ground Cave on the north coast is also worth a visit. Easily accessible, it’s also known as Skull Cave because of its skull-shaped entrance. There are steps leading into the mouth of the cave, which has two main chambers and vaulted ceilings.
The Great Cave, located near the old lighthouse near the bluff, is also striking with its amazing formation of stalagmites and stalactites. Though less accessible, the Nani Cave is impressive, with rows of dangling stalactites and stalagmites that look like chandeliers. Located off Songbird Drive, it was discovered several years ago by local workers while they were constructing a road through the bluff’s rugged interior. There are more challenging caves, such as Orange Cave, but those are for serious climbers rather than the casual explorer.
Tailored Tours
Many residents in Grand Cayman experience what’s known as “rock fever”: the need to get off the island. Visitors can do what the locals do: island hop. It’s a quick and affordable escape that provides a great change of scenery. With several daily flights via Cayman Airways, it’s easy to hop on a plane to visit the Sister Islands.
All-inclusive day trips to the Brac are offered through Paradise Cayman Vacations, which includes roundtrip airfare, transportation, a guided tour and lunch. It’s a carefree way to enjoy the Brac experience. The tour includes all of the island’s hot spots as well as a few off-the-beaten-path points of interest. For adventurers who prefer to explore on their own, Cayman Airways also offers a special “daytrip” airfare of just US$99 roundtrip (plus US$12.50 in taxes).
Highly recommended is booking a guided tour through Nature Cayman. It’s one of the best ways to embark on a Cayman Brac adventure. The service is free, part of the Sister Islands’ push to boost ecotourism and promote the islands’ unique natural wonders.
Local guide Keino Daley is a nature buff who loves to show off his island. Touring the island with a real “Bracker” — as these genuinely friendly residents here are called — is a great way to get a view of the island through the eyes of a local. A true ambassador for Cayman Brac, this outgoing young Bracker is passionate about the environment and knows the island inside out.
You can tailor your tour to suit your interests, whether it’s exploring caves and nature trails, hiking the bluff or visiting local heritage sites. Visitors can also arrange transportation; Daley will meet you at your hotel or guest house.
Take some time to travel off the beaten path — Daley is more than happy to show you several out-of-the-way sites and must-see hidden treasures. Don’t miss the Pioneer Bakery, a quaint little spot that serves up the freshest bread in town, including round hard dough bread and traditional West Indian bullas.
Another great stop is a local craft shop called NIM Things (NIM stands for Native Island Made). It’s run by artisans Starrie and Tenson Scott, who craft exquisite jewellery and handicrafts from local materials such as conch shells, thatch, chiton (known locally as sea beef) and Caymanite, a semi-precious stone found only in the Cayman Islands. Ask to see Tenson’s necklace made from chiton that won a coveted national arts award. Starrie is also happy to demonstrate her skills at weaving thatch.
Just Add Water
Anglers will want to have a chat with Tenson. He can tell you where all the best fishing holes are and will likely share a few fish tales, including his secret of how he catches wahoo without using a hook — just ask. Fishing is a big lure here, with deep-sea excursions available through local charter companies. There are also great spots right offshore. Big game fish include wahoo, tuna, mahi-mahi and blue marlin. Also found here in abundance are the highly sought-after bonefish, tarpon and permit.
Cayman Brac’s waters are also renowned for diving — consistently rated among the best in the world for the healthy reefs and amazing 100-foot clarity. There are around 50 different dive sites to explore, with Kissimmee, Tiara Tunnels, Anchor Wall and East Chute among the top draws.
A popular wreck dive is the MV Captain Tibbetts, a 330-foot Russian warship that lies on the sandy bottom off of the north shore. An intriguing shore dive is The Lost City of Atlantis, a replica of the fabled underwater city. It’s made up of archways, pyramids, a huge sundial and other sculptures. Around 50 pieces have been sunk in a sandy area at the Radar Reef dive site. The mythical underwater city is the brainchild of an enigmatic and outgoing artist known simply as Foots, a U.S. expat who now calls the Brac home. While exploring the island, there’s a good chance you’ll catch him at work in his yard by the sea, where you’ll be able to see some of the stunning sculptures he’s crafted.
Daley will likely recommend stopping in at the Cayman Brac Museum. It showcases “the good old days” of the 1930s and highlights the island’s seafaring past. Among the exhibits are an intricate replica of a two-mast schooner and a catboat. These crafts were used for turtling, key in the livelihood and development of the island. The museum is housed in the old government administration building, and most of the items on display are on loan from the homes of the locals. Heritage House also offers a glimpse of the Brac’s past and cultural heritage, with the building replicating a traditional Caymanian-style home.
So, whether on holiday or an island-hopping staycation, spend a day, weekend — or an entire vacation — and you’ll discover what true island living is all about. With a lifestyle that still holds onto the pace and traditions of yesteryear, you really can’t help but kick back in the Brac — and fall in love with its rugged natural charm.
IF YOU GO
On the Net
www.itsyourstoexplore.com
www.caymanislands.ky
These sites include detailed information on Cayman Brac and Little Cayman, including a list of dive operations and dive sites.
Nature Tours
Book a free guided tour:
(345) 948-2222, ext. 4420
naturecayman@gov.ky
www.naturecayman.com
Island Hop: One-day Guided Excursions
(345) 925-7077/(345) 925-3218
Toll-free: 1-800-742-3070
vacations@paradisecayman.com
www.paradisecayman.com
Accommodations
For a complete list of accommodations, spanning from beachfront resorts and quaint cottages to fishing lodges and bed-and-breakfasts, visit www.itsyourstoexplore.com.
Getting There
There are several daily flights from Grand Cayman to Cayman Brac via Cayman Airways and Cayman Airways Express. The jet service takes about 18 minutes, while those booking through Cayman Airways Express board one of its De Haviland Twin Otter aircraft, which takes around 35–45 minutes. Cayman Airways also offers direct flights from Miami once a week. Book through your travel agent or call CAL direct.
Cayman Airways
Reservations: (345) 949-2311
Toll-free U.S. reservations: 1-800-422-9626
Book online: www.caymanairways.com
Cayman Airways Express
Reservations: (345) 949-2311
Toll-free U.S. reservations: 1-800-422-9626
Book online: www.caymanairways.com
Source: caymanairwaysmagazine.com