What’s there to see and do on a remote Caribbean island that’s just 12 miles long and two miles wide, population 1,500? Most visitors to Cayman Brac — the middle child in the family of three islands that make up the Cayman Islands — are pleasantly surprised.
For nature lovers and adventurers, it’s paradise found. For those seeking an escape that’s a throwback in time, it’s a little slice of heaven.
Boasting unique natural charm and character, the Brac is strikingly different from Grand Cayman or its tiny sibling, Little Cayman. What sets it apart is its landscape. A dramatic limestone bluff dominates the middle of the island, rising 140 feet above the sea at the eastern tip. The vegetation is lush, almost jungle-like in some areas, while other parts of the island sport arid vistas dotted with large cacti, windswept palms and parched scrubland.
The bluff is honeycombed with caves and climbing cliffs. Also, there are numerous ponds and wetlands; a series of hiking and nature trails; world-class birding opportunities; great offshore and big game fishing; a number of heritage sites; and spectacular diving in warm waters.
While much of the coastline is rough ironshore, there are several sandy beaches that make idyllic getaways for some dreamy downtime. Public Beach is a popular retreat on the island’s south shore — a soothing spot to bask in the sun while the waves lap the shoreline.
It all sets the stage for experiencing the wonders of nature — the Brac’s greatest attraction. Indeed, nature tourism is a growing lure to this tranquil island that features a range of eco-excursions that make the short trip from Grand Cayman well worth it.
Take a Hike
Brac is Gaelic for “bluff,” a nod to the island’s Scottish influence. It’s the distinguishing feature of this rugged but lush isle, which is the tip of an underwater mountain. There are spectacular panoramic views on the eastern end of the bluff, which offers great hiking, rock climbing and caving adventures. Be sure to visit the lighthouse for a bird’s-eye view of the island and great photo opportunities.
Tour around Long Beach on the north-eastern edge — a spectacular hike at the bluff’s rocky base that’s blanketed with sea grape trees. Much of the eastern bluff is covered with dry scrubland intermingled with thatch palm trees and tall cacti. In early summer, it also boasts beautiful wild orchids. Sea grape trees and coconut palms dominate the south coastal shelf.
The bluff’s various walls are a big draw for rock climbers. There are about 75 routes to choose from. Titanium Tortuga bolts, made specifically for marine environments, are in place to give climbers more freedom to scale the craggy formation. The bluff is recommended for experienced climbers, as the terrain is rugged and can be extremely steep. Climbing guru Skip Harper has hailed Cayman Brac among the best rock climbing destinations in the world. He’s written a book about his excursions called Adventuring on Cayman Brac. There’s also a section on the Brac on his website, www.skipharper.com.
You can drive to the bluff or hike to the area. If walking, don’t be surprised if you encounter some wayward bovines — and their “calling cards” — along the way, since locals tend cattle in the area. Come prepared: bring plenty of water and sturdy footwear.
Birdwatching Bonanza
The bluff is the favourite haunt of the brown booby, a large seabird that nests in its caves and ledges. It’s easy to observe these birds up close — they’re curious creatures that seem to enjoy watching people as much as people enjoy watching them. If you’re here at the right time, you’ll come across their adorable pure-white fuzzy chicks peeking up from the edge of the cliff. The optimal time to catch a glimpse of them is March.
Home to some 200 species of resident and migratory birds, the Brac is hailed as a birdwatcher’s paradise. The best time to spot the greatest number of species is from late October to April. Magnificent frigates, red-footed booby birds, egrets, ducks, sandpipers and plovers can be found in abundance, while spoonbills and flamingos can be spotted occasionally. Chances are you’ll encounter the endangered West Indian whistling duck, a stoic bird that’s great to photograph. Also keep your eyes peeled for the vitelline warbler and tiny yellow bananaquit.
The best place to observe the Cayman Brac parrot — as well as numerous other species — is at the Brac Parrot Reserve. The 180-acre sanctuary is home to around 400 of these birds, which are unique to Cayman Brac. You can spot them while strolling along a 600-foot wooden boardwalk that winds its way through an ancient dry-wood forest and over rocky terrain that includes plunging sinkholes. The reserve is also home to a great variety of bromeliads and tree orchids.
The more adventurous and energetic can continue hiking beyond the boardwalk on a looping path that passes through different types of terrain including farmland, thickets and mature woodland. This hike takes about an hour, so remember to wear sturdy hiking shoes and bring water.
Cave Hunting
Caving is a must-do adventure. The Brac is home to hundreds of cave systems, caverns and chambers that have been naturally carved over millions of years. Many aren’t accessible but there are several that are popular stops for visitors as steps, handrails, ladders and platforms provide ease of access, with picnic and parking areas nearby.
The Bat Cave is one of the most popular and impressive. With plunging sinkholes, dark chambers and jutting stalactites mixed in with a tangle of overhanging roots and vines, it looks like a movie set straight out of Indiana Jones. And, yes, there are bats. Chances are you’ll see a few of these tiny creatures hanging out.
Peter’s Cave is another popular stop, since it sits high on the bluff on the eastern end of the island. While the cave is impressive, the view overlooking the district of Spot Bay is simply stunning. Keep in mind that getting to Peter’s Cave is quite the hike up steep steps.
Half-Way Ground Cave on the north coast is also worth a visit. Easily accessible, it’s also known as Skull Cave because of its skull-shaped entrance. There are steps leading into the mouth of the cave, which has two main chambers and vaulted ceilings.
The Great Cave, located near the old lighthouse near the bluff, is also striking with its amazing formation of stalagmites and stalactites. Though less accessible, the Nani Cave is impressive, with rows of dangling stalactites and stalagmites that look like chandeliers. Located off Songbird Drive, it was discovered several years ago by local workers while they were constructing a road through the bluff’s rugged interior. There are more challenging caves, such as Orange Cave, but those are for serious climbers rather than the casual explorer.
Tailored Tours
Many residents in Grand Cayman experience what’s known as “rock fever”: the need to get off the island. Visitors can do what the locals do: island hop. It’s a quick and affordable escape that provides a great change of scenery. With several daily flights via Cayman Airways, it’s easy to hop on a plane to visit the Sister Islands.
All-inclusive day trips to the Brac are offered through Paradise Cayman Vacations, which includes roundtrip airfare, transportation, a guided tour and lunch. It’s a carefree way to enjoy the Brac experience. The tour includes all of the island’s hot spots as well as a few off-the-beaten-path points of interest. For adventurers who prefer to explore on their own, Cayman Airways also offers a special “daytrip” airfare of just US$99 roundtrip (plus US$12.50 in taxes).
Highly recommended is booking a guided tour through Nature Cayman. It’s one of the best ways to embark on a Cayman Brac adventure. The service is free, part of the Sister Islands’ push to boost ecotourism and promote the islands’ unique natural wonders.
Local guide Keino Daley is a nature buff who loves to show off his island. Touring the island with a real “Bracker” — as these genuinely friendly residents here are called — is a great way to get a view of the island through the eyes of a local. A true ambassador for Cayman Brac, this outgoing young Bracker is passionate about the environment and knows the island inside out.
You can tailor your tour to suit your interests, whether it’s exploring caves and nature trails, hiking the bluff or visiting local heritage sites. Visitors can also arrange transportation; Daley will meet you at your hotel or guest house.
Take some time to travel off the beaten path — Daley is more than happy to show you several out-of-the-way sites and must-see hidden treasures. Don’t miss the Pioneer Bakery, a quaint little spot that serves up the freshest bread in town, including round hard dough bread and traditional West Indian bullas.
Another great stop is a local craft shop called NIM Things (NIM stands for Native Island Made). It’s run by artisans Starrie and Tenson Scott, who craft exquisite jewellery and handicrafts from local materials such as conch shells, thatch, chiton (known locally as sea beef) and Caymanite, a semi-precious stone found only in the Cayman Islands. Ask to see Tenson’s necklace made from chiton that won a coveted national arts award. Starrie is also happy to demonstrate her skills at weaving thatch.
Just Add Water
Anglers will want to have a chat with Tenson. He can tell you where all the best fishing holes are and will likely share a few fish tales, including his secret of how he catches wahoo without using a hook — just ask. Fishing is a big lure here, with deep-sea excursions available through local charter companies. There are also great spots right offshore. Big game fish include wahoo, tuna, mahi-mahi and blue marlin. Also found here in abundance are the highly sought-after bonefish, tarpon and permit.
Cayman Brac’s waters are also renowned for diving — consistently rated among the best in the world for the healthy reefs and amazing 100-foot clarity. There are around 50 different dive sites to explore, with Kissimmee, Tiara Tunnels, Anchor Wall and East Chute among the top draws.
A popular wreck dive is the MV Captain Tibbetts, a 330-foot Russian warship that lies on the sandy bottom off of the north shore. An intriguing shore dive is The Lost City of Atlantis, a replica of the fabled underwater city. It’s made up of archways, pyramids, a huge sundial and other sculptures. Around 50 pieces have been sunk in a sandy area at the Radar Reef dive site. The mythical underwater city is the brainchild of an enigmatic and outgoing artist known simply as Foots, a U.S. expat who now calls the Brac home. While exploring the island, there’s a good chance you’ll catch him at work in his yard by the sea, where you’ll be able to see some of the stunning sculptures he’s crafted.
Daley will likely recommend stopping in at the Cayman Brac Museum. It showcases “the good old days” of the 1930s and highlights the island’s seafaring past. Among the exhibits are an intricate replica of a two-mast schooner and a catboat. These crafts were used for turtling, key in the livelihood and development of the island. The museum is housed in the old government administration building, and most of the items on display are on loan from the homes of the locals. Heritage House also offers a glimpse of the Brac’s past and cultural heritage, with the building replicating a traditional Caymanian-style home.
So, whether on holiday or an island-hopping staycation, spend a day, weekend — or an entire vacation — and you’ll discover what true island living is all about. With a lifestyle that still holds onto the pace and traditions of yesteryear, you really can’t help but kick back in the Brac — and fall in love with its rugged natural charm.
IF YOU GO
On the Net
www.itsyourstoexplore.com
www.caymanislands.ky
These sites include detailed information on Cayman Brac and Little Cayman, including a list of dive operations and dive sites.
Nature Tours
Book a free guided tour:
(345) 948-2222, ext. 4420
naturecayman@gov.ky
www.naturecayman.com
Island Hop: One-day Guided Excursions
(345) 925-7077/(345) 925-3218
Toll-free: 1-800-742-3070
vacations@paradisecayman.com
www.paradisecayman.com
Accommodations
For a complete list of accommodations, spanning from beachfront resorts and quaint cottages to fishing lodges and bed-and-breakfasts, visit www.itsyourstoexplore.com.
Getting There
There are several daily flights from Grand Cayman to Cayman Brac via Cayman Airways and Cayman Airways Express. The jet service takes about 18 minutes, while those booking through Cayman Airways Express board one of its De Haviland Twin Otter aircraft, which takes around 35–45 minutes. Cayman Airways also offers direct flights from Miami once a week. Book through your travel agent or call CAL direct.
Cayman Airways
Reservations: (345) 949-2311
Toll-free U.S. reservations: 1-800-422-9626
Book online: www.caymanairways.com
Cayman Airways Express
Reservations: (345) 949-2311
Toll-free U.S. reservations: 1-800-422-9626
Book online: www.caymanairways.com
Source: caymanairwaysmagazine.com