Chicharron, fish tea, escovitch, bammy and mannish water. If you’re wondering, or worrying, what these exotic-sounding island specialties are, have no fear. They’re all part and parcel of experiencing true island fare, and many are staples at Cayman’s famous roadside fish fry huts.
The fish fry is a Caymanian tradition steeped in the island’s seafaring past. Fried fish, known as “fish fry” here, was a staple in days of yore, when islanders lived on the fruits of the sea. As the islands developed, mainly in the mid-1960s when Cayman first began its ascent as a world-class tourism and financial services destination, the time constraints of catching, cleaning, seasoning and cooking fish for the family meal left the kitchen and stepped onto the streets.
Today, there are a growing number of fish fry huts dotted around the island where you can sample island dishes and recipes handed down for generations. Many community associations, schools and non-profit groups also hold fish frys as fundraisers.
Some fry huts are small ventures located in out-of-the-way spots and are only open for limited hours, while others are well-known island institutions that draw in crowds on weekends.
Whatever the case, these rustic seaside stands have several things in common: generous portions of fresh-cooked fish, heaping helpings of sides and affordable prices — usually under CI$12. The atmosphere at these open-air eateries is decidedly down-home, giving visitors a chance to mix and mingle with the locals and experience island living. For locals, the fish fry is often a chance to get together over some good grub while catching up on the “marl road,” Cayman’s version of the grapevine. It all adds up to an island experience that’s a must for visitors who want to sample authentic Caymanian food and culture.
Some huts offer whatever is caught fresh that day, usually snapper, mahimahi, grouper, tuna or wahoo, while others rely on suppliers to guarantee the fish of your choice is always at hand. When in season, lobster and conch stew can be found on the chalkboard menu, along with such local dishes as jerk pork and chicken, turtle, oxtail and curried goat.
Grape Tree Café in Bodden Town regularly features snapper, mahimahi and grouper on its menu, along with chicken tenders for any non-seafood fans. It’s run by Osbourne “Ozzie” Bodden, Cayman’s own Ozzie Osbourne, and his wife Nancy. The politician-turned-entrepreneur is a born and bred “Bodden Towner” who grew up across the street from the seaside fish fry. When he left politics, he saw a chance to open a business that was tied to his Caymanian heritage, and the Grape Tree Café was born.
“I’ve always wanted to create something that both residents and tourists could enjoy,” he notes. “Fry fish is part of Caymanian culture, and it’s important to keep it alive.”
The Grape Tree Café is located behind Lorna’s Texaco, also one of Ozzie’s business ventures, on a narrow stretch of beautiful, white sand beach where cool breezes from the Caribbean Sea make it an ideal spot to kick back, relax and enjoy a meal. You can sit down under thatch-roof shaded picnic tables on the beach or dine on the small terrace attached to the hut.
Ozzie and Nancy opened the venture in 2009, cooking the fish themselves at the start. They’ve since hired a cook and chef to take over the major duties, but often stop by to ensure everyone is enjoying good food and having a good time. Ozzie grew up “eating a lot of fish,” and along the way became an expert at preparing it.
Ozzie’s mastery of the skillet shines at Grape Tree, where the fish is simply delicious and even generated quite the buzz from guest reviews on the travel site TripAdvisor. Its fried fish is topped with a wonderful sautéed escovitch, a Latin dish of sweet pepper, onions and carrots in a tangy vinaigrette. Grape Tree also serves roast fish, which is stuffed with cabbage or okra, doused with butter, wrapped in foil and cooked in the oven. Other seasonal specialties include roasted breadfruit, a starchy island treat that is similar to a potato, fritters, plantains and fried cassava. On Saturdays, you can pick up chicharron, seasoned, deep fried pork cracklings that are decadent and delicious.
Grape Tree has become an increasingly popular stop for tourists and a hit with the locals — it goes through an average of 400 pounds of fish each weekend. Closed on Mondays, Grape Tree offers local dishes during the week and serves up fish fry Friday through Sunday. There’s Caribbean music playing in the background on Friday and Saturday. You can bring your own beer, or pick your poison at Ozzie’s liquor store next door, except on Sundays. There’s also a great selection of fresh juices.
Other popular fish fry spots can be found in West Bay and East End. Heritage Kitchen in West Bay is a long-standing weekend tradition. Here, along with fresh fish, you’ll find the famous fish tea, a soup of sorts that includes a savoury mix of fish, onions and peppers. You can also sometimes sample mannish water, a spicy soup made from various goat parts, including the head.
On the other side of the island, in the sleepy district of East End, you’ll find several popular fish fry stops. One is located across from the blowholes en route to the village and another is behind the East End Texaco station, both open only on Sunday. Captain Herman, who runs deep sea fishing charters, fries up fresh catch at his new, brightly decorated hut set on a prime seaside spot. Decorated with conch shells and featuring a menu written on the sail of catboat, a traditional island fishing vessel, it offers a true taste of island flavour.